Zemu Gap (5861m)

India / Sikkim / Mangan /
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The great Kanchenjhongha east ridge continued to Zemu Peak & an unnamed peak and ends at zemu gap from where rises the sharp wall of simvu peak. Zemu Gap is situated in between the head of the zemu glacier,N.Sikkim & a tributary glacier of Tonsyong of west sikkim & thus it connects North & West Sikkim.Its coordinate is 27°40'9"N 88°12'53"E.Claud White in 1890 reached talung glacier and get a view of the gap. Douglas Fresh Field during his round kanchenjhongha trip had a go toward the Zemu glacier & viewed the gap in 1899.It is said that yeti foot prints were seen by the German team over there in 1931.Dr. Alexander Kellas in 1910 reached near the gap from north side & that followed by two member of Paul Bauer’s 1929 Kangchenjunga expedition & John Hunt's try in 1937 from the north. Captain Boustead claimed to be crossed the gap from south side(through Tongsyong gl)to reach zemu gl & back in the same route.Inspired by Boustead's report the legendary explorer Bil Tilman in 1936 along with 4 sherpas made a serious attempt to cross the gap.He crossed Talung gl and reached Tonsyong gl through the scree,rock & snow slopes of the rock projection between talung-tonsyong gl.He established a camp in the the tributary ice fall of Tonsyong Gl.that leads to Zemu gap. He tried his best but huge crevasses & avalance prone zones forced him to return from about 18000'.He turned down Captain Boustead's claim & remarked some misconceptions went behind the claim.He might have climbed some steps & returned back to Talung Gl. Bil Tilman was the 1st man ln the history successfully crossed the gap from north and descended through south registering 1st ever cross of the gap In 1938.In 1975 an Indian Expedition to Talung Peak was unsuccesful & two members Nima Tashi & Col Bajaj tried the Gap.As per Bajaj's report (himalayan Journal 1975-34th issue) they reached Tonsyong & climbed through the Tributary Gl easily but nearly 200'-300'below the gap they found two huge crevasses of nearly 30-40ft width each one that forced them to retreat.I came to know from Mr Tashi that Col Bajaj's report was much exaggerated.Thereafter in fact a few attempts were made but no serious attempts have been was undertaken so far.There are huge crevasses & avalance prone zones in the gap which cannot be negotiated with out quality climbers & with proper motivation. Besides that,due to global warming the feature of the glaciers as well as the gap have changed a lot which is clearly visible through google map as well as some current photogrphs.Three British climbers (belongs to red rope)in 2008 attempted the gap with inadequate arrangements & according to their report they returned from tongsyong gl. Mr Colin Knowels, leader of the expedition & solid climber, should have worked out more seriouly for that venture.
In late Nov 2009 a Kolkata Team have a look to the gap from 4/5km away from a place near green lake/zemu glacier,N.Sikim.In March 2010 another Kolkata team went to recce from south side & reached Yeonjhotak(5 pokhris) to captured some photos.
& took some photographs only.Off late a team from kolkata(Adventure Mania) made 1st serious attempt after the Britons in Nov.2011 & succeded to establish a camp beyond Tonsyong Gl.but due to adverse weather condition they had to abandon & retreated through Claud White & Tilman's route down the Rukel and Rongyoung chu gorge It took to reach Mangan .The members were Lhakpa Sherpa, Thendup Sherpa, Arjun Saha, Arindam Sarkar, Dukpa Tsering Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa and Anindya Mukherjee.Adventure Mania under the leadership of Anindya Mukherjee, a true explorer, made another trip by repeating the reverse trek from Mangan-Yujhotak and successful to attain the top of the of Zemu Gap on 15.12.2011.Anindya,Thendup & Pemba Sherpa thus become the 1st team to reach the top from south side (so far documentation is concerned).But to me so far the achivement is concerned, zemu gap is not a peak but a high altitude difficult pass.So mere reaching the top of the topo does not mean that entire part of the pass has passed through. So credit will go to the team who will cross the pass through south or north. But Anindya's repeated effort must deserve appreaciation
Nearby cities:
Coordinates:   27°40'23"N   88°13'0"E

Comments

  • 2nd pic is Asit Paul's click from upper Zemu gl nearly 4-5km away of the gap.
  • Really interesting facts.
  • Anindya Mukherjee(raja Da)raely a bengal tiger
This article was last modified 3 years ago